How a ‘Brit’ has become a ‘frog’

My book is titled "Rebirth" ("Renaissance" in French), and its closing chapter brings me to Lyon, France, in late August 2018—a new man, reborn.

This rebirth followed the darkest days of my life: the devastating loss of my first wife to cancer and the collapse of our business in late 2016. In the wake of that grief, I embarked on a journey I could never have foreseen. Instead of sinking into despair, I found myself taking a radically different path. After only a short period of reflection, I made the decision to leave London behind. I packed my bags, got on my motorbike, and set off on what I hoped would be an enlightening ride around the world. My entrepreneurial spirit was still alive, and I fully expected to find a new business venture along the way, perhaps even a new country to call home.

But life, in its infinite unpredictability, had something entirely different in store for me. I had never imagined, in even my wildest dreams, that I would find someone to love again—someone with whom I could share my life and grow old together.

What I should have remembered, however, is that life is full of unexpected twists and turns, especially when you journey with an open heart and mind. When you allow yourself to be vulnerable to the world, engage with the people and experiences that cross your path, and greet life with a smile, the universe tends to smile back.

It was this mindset that brought me to a little restaurant in Cassis, near Marseille, just five weeks into my trip. I was alone, enjoying a quiet meal when Dalila walked in. She was smiling, and before long, she invited me to join her group of friends. That simple gesture was the spark that lit the fire of our story. Cupid's arrow struck the next day, though neither of us realized it at the time. But soon enough, love hearts were flying back and forth in our WhatsApp messages.

One year later, we were married on the sun-soaked beaches of Tulum, Mexico, even before I had completed my ride around the world. Dalila, with her patience and unwavering support, stood by me through it all.

It was during this chapter of my life that I began the process of becoming a Frenchman—a journey of bureaucracy, baguettes, and blending cultures. I filled in form after form, had documents translated, learnt the language, registered for what seemed like an endless list of necessities, and, of course, dutifully bought my daily baguette. Meanwhile, I was searching for my next venture, trying to rekindle that entrepreneurial spark. Reluctantly I had to admit that the ideas were not flowing as I had hoped. Instead, it was Dalila’s suggestion that changed the course of my professional life: "Why not teach English to business students?" she said. And just like that, a new chapter began.

The journey to becoming a French citizen wasn’t without its challenges. We navigated the labyrinthine corridors of the Préfecture, facing the intimidating task of securing a titre de séjour—and repeating the process annually. But we pressed on, and eventually, we set our sights on the ultimate goal: French citizenship.

More than a year later, that dream became a reality. Today, I proudly carry my French carte d’identité and passport, nestled side by side with my British one—a tangible reminder of the incredible journey I’ve been on, from the depths of loss to the heights of love and renewal.

French passeport. My first. As yet unused.

United Kingdom passport. Well used. Full of visas and rubbber stamps. Stiil vaild.

Comment un « Brit » est devenu une « grenouille ».

Mon livre s'intitule "Renaissance" ("Rebirth" en anglais), et son dernier chapitre m'amène à Lyon, en France, fin août 2018—un homme nouveau, renaissant.

Cette renaissance a suivi les jours les plus sombres de ma vie : la perte dévastatrice de ma première épouse, emportée par le cancer, et l’effondrement de notre entreprise à la fin de 2016. Suite à ce chagrin, j'ai entrepris un voyage que je n'aurais jamais pu prévoir. Au lieu de sombrer dans le désespoir, j'ai emprunté un chemin radicalement différent. Après une courte période de réflexion, j'ai décidé de quitter Londres. J'ai fait mes valises, enfourché ma moto et je suis parti pour ce que j’espérais être un voyage éclairant autour du monde. Mon esprit d'entrepreneur était toujours là, et je m'attendais pleinement à trouver une nouvelle aventure professionnelle en cours de route, voire même un nouveau pays où m'installer.

Mais la vie, dans son imprévisibilité infinie, avait prévu quelque chose de totalement différent pour moi. Je n'aurais jamais imaginé, même dans mes rêves les plus fous, que je trouverais à nouveau l'amour—quelqu'un avec qui partager ma vie et vieillir ensemble.

Ce que j'aurais dû me rappeler, cependant, c’est que la vie est pleine de rebondissements inattendus, surtout quand on voyage avec un cœur et un esprit ouverts. Quand on se permet d’être vulnérable face au monde, de s'engager avec les gens et les expériences qui croisent notre chemin, et d'accueillir la vie avec le sourire, l'univers a tendance à nous sourire en retour.

C'est cet état d'esprit qui m'a conduit dans un petit restaurant à Cassis, près de Marseille, à peine cinq semaines après le début de mon voyage. J'étais seul, savourant un repas tranquille, quand Dalila est entrée. Elle souriait, et très vite, elle m’a invité à rejoindre son groupe d'amis. Ce simple geste a été l’étincelle qui a allumé le feu de notre histoire. La flèche de Cupidon a frappé le lendemain, bien que nous ne l'ayons pas réalisé à ce moment-là. Mais très vite, des cœurs d’amour s’échangeaient dans nos messages WhatsApp.

Un an plus tard, nous nous sommes mariés sur les plages ensoleillées de Tulum, au Mexique, avant même que j'aie terminé mon tour du monde à moto. Dalila, avec sa patience et son soutien indéfectible, était à mes côtés tout au long.

C'est au cours de cette période de ma vie que j'ai entamé le processus de devenir Français—un voyage fait de bureaucratie, de baguettes et de mélange de cultures. J'ai rempli formulaire après formulaire, fait traduire des documents, appris la langue, me suis inscrit à une liste apparemment interminable de formalités, et bien sûr, j’ai acheté ma baguette quotidienne. Pendant ce temps, je cherchais ma prochaine aventure, tentant de raviver cette étincelle entrepreneuriale. À contrecœur, j'ai dû admettre que les idées ne venaient pas comme je l'avais espéré. C’est finalement la suggestion de Dalila qui a changé le cours de ma vie professionnelle : "Pourquoi ne pas enseigner l'anglais aux étudiants en commerce ?" m’a-t-elle proposé. Et c’est ainsi qu’un nouveau chapitre a commencé.

Le chemin vers la citoyenneté française n’a pas été sans défis. Nous avons navigué dans les labyrinthes des couloirs de la Préfecture, affrontant la tâche intimidante d'obtenir un titre de séjour—et de répéter le processus chaque année. Mais nous avons persévéré, et finalement, nous avons visé l’objectif ultime : la citoyenneté française.

Plus d’un an plus tard, ce rêve est devenu réalité. Aujourd’hui, je porte fièrement ma carte d’identité française et mon passeport français, placés côte à côte avec mon passeport britannique—un rappel tangible du parcours incroyable que j'ai vécu, des profondeurs de la perte aux sommets de l'amour et du renouveau.

Still on two wheels

I am reluctant to reveal that it has been over 40 years since I first got my leg over a motocycle, but it’s true !

Apart from a moped which some people affectionately called a “Fizzie”, my first proper bike was a Suzuki TS90. Here’s a shot of me on it which has recently emerged from my late mother’s photo collection. She must have taken it shortly after I got it as it is not yet displaying the electric blue paintwork that I added to the tank.

Mark Holmes on my Suzuki TS90. Circa 1975.

Here’s another shot from the past. This Easy-Rider Chopper that I hired, almost a copy of Pete Fonda’s from the 1969 film, looked fantastic and rode well, but only in a straight line. Although bends are not tight around Las Vegas and the Nevada desert, the frame frequently grounded at junctions, producing a terrifyingly grinding sound. Starting her up in the parking lot of a diner set 4 car alarms going before my mate and I on his Harley trike made a hasty exit. Thanks for the memory of a great day Barry Rubin.

And here’s what my wheels look like today. A new Triumph Tiger Sport.

The engine is about a quarter of the size of the Rocket - going from 2,300 cc down to 660 cc. took a leap of faith - but I am really pleased with it. It’s definitely sportier, lighter and much more agile.

Gone to a new home.

It’s been an agonising four years, after riding around the world, trying to decide what to do with my Triumph Rocket X.

We tried a few mini adventures on it together around France and over the Pyrenees, but two up on a bike just didn’t get under Dalila’s skin in a way we had hoped. She just wasn’t comfortable with me in charge - can’t blame her really.

I rode it back to the UK from Lyon and showed it at a couple of motocycle events, but otherwise it hasn’t been very far. Paying for a garage and insurance in central Lyon just added to the problem.

And so, after removing the heavily scratched side panniers and top box, re-painting the exhausts and a few other bits, lowering the price I first thought of quite dramatically, I finally found someone who was happy to take on a high mileage, once around the world, Triumph Rocket X. (Numbered 190/500 for the record).

Guillaume Gsell is from just to the north of Lyon. He rode away with a big mile. I almost cried.

Cuba is broken

Cuba is broken.  Cuba doesn’t work.

We expected this summer’s choice for a holiday to be something of an adventure but were surprised by the degree of difficulties and challenges presented to us everyday.

Air France put us on the wrong footing when we checked in and were told they would not let us in to Cuba without a health declaration, proving that we had been vaccinated against Covid 19. I was certain I had done this correctly on line but had just a QR code printed on a document to prove so. The next 15 hours passed without being able to relax, until the Cubans scanned the code and let us with a smile.

Our first hotel, or hostal, pre-booked in the ‘historic centre’ of Havana turned out to be in the middle of a ghetto, surrounded by filth, squalor, and destruction. Our tiny room had no windows, just shutters, and the bathroom harboured cockroaches. Other people there were kind enough to advise us not to walk on the pavements but on the roads, as the balconies overhead were likely to fall on us.  Glancing up and down the street we could clearly see that the advice was valid.

The Cuban music was good wherever we went – we heard Guantanamera and danced the salsa every day. (Do you know Guantanamera translates roughly as ‘woman from Guantanamo’ – now better known for the US naval base and prison.) We also loved the 1950s American cars and a tour around town in one was a real joy.

Our hotel also failed to provide us with a link to the outside world as their internet service was not working. Their solution was to tell us to go an office run by the national internet provider, Etecsa, buy a card with two long rows of numbers on it, walk to a particular square with park benches and after looking for a wi-fi hot spot sign, enter the numbers and get access. The service was weak but worked just long enough for us to plan our journey ahead. We were beginning to doubt that our preference for just making up our minds what to do and where to go in Cuba was the right one.

Dealing with money also proved to be even more frustratingly complicated. We quite enjoy negotiating prices for things, but in Cuba we quickly learned that you also have to negotiate how you are going to pay. Different service providers form taxis to guides, and different businesses from restaurants to hotels, all have different rules. Our bank cards, both in Euros and Sterling, rarely worked and when they did we were charged in US dollars. Someone, somewhere is skimming off dollars and sending them out of the country. With the US embargo on all things Cuban in place we had to conclude that it was the Cuban government itself, or mafia with the government’s support, behind this scam. (Now I’m going to have a sack pulled over my head, bundled into the back of a car, smuggled back to Cuba, imprisoned for life, and never let out ! )

We were also asked to pay in US dollars, Canadian dollars, or in Euros, but rarely in Cuban Pesos. We took quite a few Euros with us, thankfully, and on the second day there the government changed the rate of exchange. It moved dramatically in our favour from 1 Euro for 25 Pesos, to 1 Euro for 120 Pesos. The money changers in the street were already offering this amount so the government was forced to act. So we changed all our Euros to Pesos before they changed their mind. By the time we left the street rate had gone up to 130 Pesos.

Access to our bank accounts was blocked for ‘security reasons’ so we couldn’t even try to manage things from back home. We juggled as much as we could to get to the end of the holiday, but felt we had completely lost control of our finances.

After a few more challenging days staying in a ‘casa particular’, in an old colonial town called Trinidad where time has stopped still, we gave up the daily struggle and booked an all-inclusive resort on the north coast; something we had always wanted to avoid. The beach, boat trip, snorkelling and cave diving, as well as the Pina Coladas, were all great but the food had us running for the hills.

Restaurants outside of the hotel served quite reasonable meals but it was only on rare occasions that all the menu items were available.

The daily struggle with money and the internet exhausted us.

Soo too did the electricity cuts. In the middle of the day or in the middle of the night, the country cannot afford to keep its power stations going. The infrastructure is crumbling everywhere. Houses, offices, factories and roads are all falling apart, and there appears to be no money to repair them.

The world no longer buys much sugar, rum or cigars from them. Tourism accounted for 40% of its GDP before Covid and it has recovered only about half that level so far. Many hotels declared themselves full to us but in fact still had half their capacity closed.

What a shame, a great shame, that the largest Caribbean island, luxuriously verdant, with fabulous beaches, is falling apart.

‘La Revolucion’, still glorified on posters wherever we went, removed greedy colonialists from Cuba, but has taken them in a downward spiral ever since. Their form of socialism / communism / dictatorship simply hasn’t worked.  

‘Patria o Muerte’ (Country or death) declared Fidel Castro in 1960.

Perhaps it should now read ‘El país está muerto’ (The country is dead).

Keep on riding....

Have another look at the list of motorcycle circumnavigators that I’ve compiled.

Horizons Unlimited /circumnavigators

There are now 315 people listed. That’s still an average of just 3 people per year since the first person rode around the world in 1912. The list is packed full of fascinating stories, and now has photos added to every entry. If it looks to you like a substantial piece of work, that’s because it is !! I’m happy to still be doing it though, and thank Grant Johnson from Horizons Unlimited for his enthusiasm and support.

Post Covid 19, or just about, I note with enormous pleasure that people are venturing out into the world again on their motorcycles. Many have struck out with great ambition, and some are even attempting to circumnavigate.

Keep going, keep riding, and let me know if you make it back to where you started.

The Power of Positivity

I have written and spoken about the importance of the power of positivity in the past, as well as dealing with it in my book. It is not easy I’ll admit. Staying positive saved me from catastrophe and led me to a new life. 

Mark Holmes

What is the power of positivity?

Positive thinking is an emotional and mental attitude that focuses on the good in any given situation. 

It simply means you approach the good and the bad in life with the expectation that things will go well.

It's about anticipating happiness, health and success instead of expecting the worst. The results will benefit you.

Don't just think positive – overcome your limiting beliefs and transform your entire mindset.

With a positive attitude you are not daunted by obstacles, difficulties, or delays, and you do not give in easily. True positive thinking is not just saying that everything will be okay, but at the same time thinking about the possibility of failure, expecting difficulties, and learning how to overcome them.

What is the value of positivity?

People who experience frequent positivity show greater productivity and are able to engage in greater emotional self-regulation, self-control, and delay of immediate gratification. Positive people are more sociable and have stronger networks.

How does being positive affect others?

A positive person focuses on what's good in their life, finds joy in the simple things, and takes the general attitude that while there are lots of things they cannot directly control, they can control what they choose to focus on.

Most people enjoy the company of a positive person.

Researchers have found that when subjects "catch" positive emotions from others, they are more likely to be viewed by others as more cooperative and competent. They also perceive themselves as being more inclined to share responsibility in a group.

What are the 10 most positive emotions?

The strongest, and by far the most powerful, is Love, followed by Joy, Gratitude, Serenity, Interest, Hope, Pride, Amusement, Inspiration, and Awe.

A Historic Photo

What do they all have in common? From left to right:

Reece Gilkes

Simon Thomas

Jane Cavell

Ian Coates

Lisa Thomas

John McComb

Tiffany Coates

Elspeth Beard

Mopsa English

Sam Manicom

François Nuttall

Richard English

Mary Sievier

Steph Jeavons

Paul Nuttal

Mark Holmes

Matt Bishop

EVERYONE

in this photograph has successfully

circumnavigated the world by motorcycle.

At The Overland Event in September 2021, I was invited to give a talk about my list, now published on Horizons Unlimited “How many people have circumnavigated the world by motorcycle?”. I realised that there were 17 of us there that weekend, so I organised this photo.

I also realised that nearly 50% were women. Way above the global average. I took another photo.

Congratulations to everybody.

How many people have circumnavigated the world by motorcycle?

I started with this simple question, but answering it proved to be difficult, very difficult indeed.

Riding around the world on my Triumph Rocket X in 2017 /2018, I started to wonder how many people had circumnavigated before me. Unable to find an answer I set about creating a definitive list, researching fastidiously to determine the number, as well as noting names, dates, bikes, countries and so on. The list is now published on Horizons Unlimited as an open source to enable the global motorcycle community to contribute to it.

https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/circumnavigators/

To my great surprise I also discovered that the very first person to ride around the world, Carl Stearns Clancy in 1912/1913, is still the youngest to have done so. He was only 23 years and one month old when he returned to New York. *

I announced: “It’s just a list. The number of people on it is not really important. It’s the stories behind everyone’s journey that matters. Every one of the 291 people on the list has an incredible story to tell. Every journey was not merely difficult or dangerous, but was life defining”. Clancy himself said “I started a boy, I had come back a man."

I realise that the list of circumnavigators, detailing their choice of motorcycle, dates, start and finish point, countries ridden, books written, videos produced, website and social media etc. is not as important as their life-defining journeys. Many more started off with good intentions but were halted by lack of funds, breakdowns, accidents or death. Some simply had a change of heart when they found something, or more usually someone, who stopped them in their tracks. Many others took considerably longer to complete their circumnavigation than they had anticipated. Others have been around the world several times, but are only included once on the list.

The list includes the first woman to ride around the world, the first British woman and the first British men. The first to ride on all seven continents, the fastest around the world, and the longest journey. When I completed the list, with 273 entries on it in November 2020, I realised that Carl Stearns Clancy, the first person to ride solo round the world in 1912/1913, was still the youngest person to have done so. He left New York when he was 22 years and two months old, and returned 11 months later when he was 23 years and one month old. The publishers of Guinness World Records did not exist at the time but I claim that a wealth of evidence exists to support his achievement.

Many had incredible adventures on a motorcycle, but only circumnavigators have been included. In some cases I had to make a difficult decision based on the weight of evidence I uncovered. Some people were excluded as a result. However, the list is now held as an ‘open source’ on Horizons Unlimited, and edit suggestions are welcome. I want the global motorcycle community to take ownership of the list. I fully expect that the list will grow as more people step forward to reveal their adventure, or tell me about others that they know.

It is undoubtedly true that no-one circumnavigated the globe just to be included on a list compiled in 2020, but I hope that future adventurers might be motivated by its existence.

• I expect to announce the result of further research in January 2021.

My visa application - a decision from the U.S. Consulate in Lima, Peru just after Trump lost the election. Two and a half years too late for me!

22 November 2020.

Dear Consular Section,

I am very pleased to learn that my visa document is available to pick up, but …. I am no longer in Lima.

Please read the email thread below. I sat in Lima for 50 days in May and June 2018 waiting for your decision. I was riding my motorcycle around the world at the time, but eventually decided to fly over the USA to Canada in order to complete my journey.

Whereas I respect that you are under no obligation to let me in again, despite multiple visits over many years, I have reluctantly concluded that as my journey involved traversing Iran in 2017, you really did not know what to do with me. Iranian nationals had just been banned from entry, but I was not, and have never been, an Iranian national.

So, what was the problem?

Mark Holmes
Now living in Lyon, France, and not expecting to be back to Lima anytime soon.

******

Received from US Consulate Lima Peru 20 November 2020:

Hello Mark Stephen Holmes,

Our records indicate that your visa document(s) is available for pick up at LIMA Document Service Center. Document processing takes a minimum of one hour; therefore, you may pick-up your documents at LIMA Document Service Center approximately one hour after receiving this message.

Avenida El Derby No 55 Torre 2, Local 2, Frente a la Embajada. Santiago de Surco, Lima, Lima 33, PE

Please be advised: Security measures at Service Centers that assist U.S. visa applicants have changed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

• Best regards, 
  The CSRA Visa Appointment and Information Service Team——————————————————————————-

Here’s how the correspondence started:

Sent 14 May 2018.

Dear Embassy of the United States of America,

I attended an interview earlier today at the Consular Section in Lima, to support my application for a tourist Visa B2. There is a concern about my visit to Iran last year, and I understand that further questions need to be asked of me. I welcome those questions.

 Briefly, I set out from London UK where I live in April 2017, to ride my motorcycle around the world. I travelled through Europe then Turkey, Iran, Dubai and on to India. Iran was en route. I had a guide with me at all times in Iran, a condition of my Visa, and left from the southern port of Bandar Abbas after 9 days. I managed to visit 4 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, but otherwise I spent my time riding 1500 miles, and following my guide in his car.

After Iran I travelled through SE Asia then Australia and New Zealand. I flew over to Chile, then rode through Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia and in to Peru. I would like to continue my journey north as soon as possible, and finish in New York City, after visiting friends all over the U.S.

The purpose of me writing to you now is to ask you to consider my application as quickly as possible, please. I have already visited many of the most interesting places in Peru - Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu  and the Nazca Lines. I now have nothing else to do but to literally sit in my hotel bedroom and wait.

I have been a friend of the United States for over 30 years, visiting about 50 times for business and vacations. I have many friends all over the country waiting to see me.  Please let me back in?

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

——————————————————————————————————

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 9:11 AM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. xxxx

Sent 21 May 2018.

PLEASE PLEASE RESPOND TO ME. I WOULD LIKE TO EMPHASISE AGAIN THAT I AM LITERALLY SITTING IN MY HOTEL BEDROOM IN LIMA WAITING FOR YOU. IT HAS BEEN ONE WEEK NOW AND I HAVE HEARD NOTHING FROM YOU. IF YOU HAVE FURTHER QUESTIONS, PLEASE ASK THEM, OR PLEASE INVITE ME BACK TO THE CONSULATE FOR A FURTHER INTERVIEW?   I AM A UK CITIZEN.

————————————————————————————————-

Sent 22 May 2018

Dear Consular Section,

Thank you for acknowledging receipt of my responses to the supplementary questions.

Do you have any idea when I can expect a decision from the Consular Officer?  I am sorry to press you, but as I have mentioned, I have nothing else to do in Lima but to sit and wait in my hotel bedroom until I hear from you.

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

————————————————————————————————

On 23 May 2018, at 14:05, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

Dear Mr. Holmes,

Thank you for contacting our Non-Immigrant Visa Unit.

The information has been forwarded to the consular officer for review.

Sincerely,

Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

peru.usembassy.gov

————————————————————————————————-

Sent 24 May 2018

Dear Consular Section,

Thank you for your email. I appreciate that you say the process cannot be expedited, but PLEASE tell the Consular Officer than I am still here, sat in my hotel bedroom in Lima, unable to move on with my journey until I hear from them. Again, I am literally sitting here with nothing else to do but wait.

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

————————————————————————————————-

On 25 May 2018, at 13:38, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

Dear Mr. Holmes,

Thank you for contacting our Non-Immigrant Visa Unit.

The Consular Section cannot provide additional details on your case status.  This processing is mandatory, and cannot be expedited.  A consular officer will contact you with instructions once the administrative processing concludes.  We cannot predict how long this process will take as it varies based on the individual circumstances of each case.

Sincerely,

Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

peru.usembassy.gov

 ——————————————————————————————-

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2018 11:20 AM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: Re: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. xxxx

PLEASE

Dear Consular Section,

Thank you for your email. I appreciate that you say the process cannot be expedited, but PLEASE tell the Consular Officer than I am still here, sat in my hotel bedroom in Lima, unable to move on with my journey until I hear from them. Again, I am literally sitting here with nothing else to do but wait.

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

 ——————————————————————————

On 5 Jun 2018, at 11:53, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

Dear Mr. Holmes,

Thank you for new contact.

A consular officer will contact you with instructions as soon as the administrative processing concludes. 

Sincerely,

 Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

peru.usembassy.gov

 ———————————————————————-

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 11:43 AM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: Re: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. 0094

Dear  Consular Section and Consular Officer,

Today is my Birthday - June 12th. For my birthday present can I have a Visa?

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

——————————————————————————

On 12 Jun 2018, at 11:50, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

 Dear Mr. Holmes,

 Thank you for new contact.

 We regret to inform that the administrative processing continues. We will contact you as soon as it concludes. 

Sincerely,

 Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

—————————————————————————————-

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 4:00 PM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: Re: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. xxxx

Dear Consular Section and Consular Officer,

Is anybody actually looking at my case?

I cannot understand why this is taking so long. I am still the man that I always was. A friend of USA. A regular visitor for most of my adult life, spending Millions buying US goods and services. I have explained to you that I am riding around the world on my motorcycle. I have ridden through over 30 countries so far, including Iran. There is nothing more to it than that. Yet you are making me wait, wait and wait.

I would like to assure you that I fully respect your right to protect your border, but ask you, again, to please complete your investigations in my case.

I have also explained that I am literally sitting in my hotel bedroom in Lima with nothing else to do but wait to hear from you. Can you imagine how difficult it is for me?

Yours, a faithful friend of America
Mark Holmes

  —————————————————————————————

On 21 Jun 2018, at 15:53, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

Dear Mr. Holmes,

Thank you for contacting our Non-Immigrant Visa Unit.

 As stated on the Department of State website https://travel.state.gov/content/visas/en/general/wait-times.html/and on the U.S. Embassy Lima website https://pe.usembassy.gov/visas/nonimmigrant-visas/ , visa applications may be subject to an administrative procedure, which could last several weeks even months.  Therefore, visa applicants are reminded to apply early for their visa, well in advance of the anticipated travel date.

  Once the administrative processing concludes, a consular representative will contact you.

 Sincerely,

Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

————————————————————————————

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2018 4:50 PM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: Re: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. 0094

Dear Consular Section and Consular Officer,

 I am struggling to understand why you seem to be treating me, nothing but a loyal friend of America, so unfairly.

Border Protection Officers took 2 hours to process a friend of mine last year at Los Angeles Airport when he arrived with a Visa Waiver issued before he visited Iran later in the year. (he was on a motorcycle too)

The US Consulate in Athens, Greece, took 2 days to issue a Visa to another friend of mine last year, after multiple visits to Iran.

Yet you will only tell me that you can take up to 2 months to process my application to conclusion.

You are making me feel like my lifetime of visits and love for the USA now count for nothing.

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

———————————————————————————-

On 25 Jun 2018, at 17:10, LimaNIV <limaniv@state.gov> wrote:

Dear Mr. Holmes,

Thank you for contacting our Non-Immigrant Visa Unit.

As stated on the Department of State website https://travel.state.gov/content/visas/en/general/wait-times.html/and on the U.S. Embassy Lima website https://pe.usembassy.gov/visas/nonimmigrant-visas/ , visa applications may be subject to an administrative procedure, which could last several months. 

Once the administrative processing concludes, a consular representative will contact you.

Sincerely,

Consular Section

U.S. Embassy – Lima, Peru

—————————————————————————

On 6 Aug 2018, at 16:04, Mark Holmes <markholmes@me.com> wrote:

Dear Consular Section,

The service you have given me is disgraceful.

Are you ever going to complete my application?

Best Regards
Mark Holmes

 peru.usembassy.gov

 ———————————————————————————-

.

.

From: Mark Holmes [mailto:markholmes@me.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2019 2:24 AM
To: LimaNIV
Subject: Re: 221(g). Numero del caso : 2018. 131. 845. xxxx

 Dear Consular Section,

Please forward this email thread to a person who has the ability to make a decision. Someone with the competence to do so.

I have now been waiting for  ONE YEAR  for you to process my Visa application, and still I am waiting for you to make a decision. 

Please read this email thread from the bottom. From the start one year ago. I have paid for you to process my visa application, and still not received a conclusion from you.

Best Regards
Mark Holmes
—————————————————————————————-

… special relationship

Making progress

After writing furiously about my ride around the world, as well as the book that followed, I don’t seem to have had much to say for a while. But I assure you I have been busy.

The Coronavirus pandemic has got in the way of everybody’s life of course, and normal life has ground to a halt. However, with time on my hands, I set about trying to answer a simple question. “How many people have circumnavigated the world by motorcycle”? Compiling a definitive list has proved to be a bigger task than I had anticipated but the work is almost complete. I have unearthed one fascinating story after another in the process. The list will be published soon.

Also due to be published soon is a new version of my book. “Rebirth” has been translated into French and acquired a new title: “La Parenthèse Inattendue”. It translates as ‘the unexpected interlude’. A bit clunky in English but it works well in French.

After a tortuous process I was finally able to sell my home in London. Dalila and I have now bought a new home together, in the centre of Lyon. We couldn’t be happier with it.

And in further good news, I am pleased to announce that I will be starting work as a freelance English Tutor here in Lyon. Within ambitious companies there are individuals and teams who want to improve their English communication skills. There is a real enthusiasm for doing so and a recognition that English is still the preferred universal language.

Mark Holmes, Professeur d’anglais.

Life with a hot engine between my legs.

It all started with a pub a few miles from home, I have decided retrospectively. (For my friends around the world, pub is an abbreviation for Public House or Bar.) I could get there quicker with an engine between my legs than I could by pedal power alone. Besides which, arriving at a pub on a bicycle was simply not ‘cool’ in those days.

In fact I had spent a lot of time on bicycles in my early teenage years. Riding around Surrey, England, in ever increasing circles, filling in time when not at school, may have also fuelled a desire to travel to places unknown. I certainly enjoyed the rides. My first school holiday job was repairing and renovating bicycles for a charming gentleman called Mr. Ballard. I got pretty good at stripping them down to a bare frame, repainting, polishing everything, and putting them back to together. After that I sought a succession of holiday jobs cleaning cars, stacking supermarket shelves, working in various shops selling plastic things, kitchen furniture, and clothes *, as well as sweeping floors in a department store. All of which helped me save enough money to buy my first bike, with an engine.

Strictly speaking it was a 49cc. moped, but I imagined it was a Norton Commando, the stuff of dreams. In a crouched position I could almost reach 50 miles per hour. Although it terrified my mother, it gave me a whole new sense of freedom. I could travel further and faster, and look ‘cool’ too. However, I am ashamed to admit that I gave no consideration to the drink-drive laws which I now abide rigorously. Journeys home from that pub, from time to time, included deviations over a golf course fairway, occasionally sliding sideways, and trying with increasing speed each time, to get air between me, the bike and a certain humpback bridge.

Disgraceful Mark!

My first ‘bike’. A Yamaha FS1E, known as a Fizzie. (Photo courtesy of someone’s restoration)

The Fizzie was mostly reliable, but had an aversion to rain. It left me powerless on a number of occasions, with no choice but to push it all the way home, getting ever more drenched, as well as miserable. It was time for something bigger, better, and able to deliver me that 50 miles per hour experience.

A Suzuki TS-90 entered my life. A motorbike, not a moped. Now I was really ‘cool’.

Suzuki TS-90.

I took the tank off and re-spayed it a different shade of blue, just as I had done with Mr.Ballard’s bicycles. The chrome absorbed a lot of polishing time, and after a while I repainted the black exhaust. Although I reached 50 miles per hour easily, it failed to achieve my new goal - attracting women. I couldn’t even find one who was interested in riding pillion with me, but noticed a number of friends were enjoying success because they had a car. The bike got sold shortly after the piston seized on me, and after several attempts I managed to pass my driving test. Up until that point I only needed a ‘provisional’ license to ride bikes up to 250cc. in the UK. Just a piece of paper, obtained without any training whatsoever.

My first car achieved my new goal; taking women for a ride. So much so that I did not miss the bike.

My Mini. Basic, reliable and comparatively inexpensive. That’s me on the left, looking ‘cool’, with Nick and John from college. We all achieved our ‘goals’.

A year or so later I met Sue, and my life changed. Thoughts of another motorbike were put aside in favour of a succession of ever larger cars, for the ever increasing needs of a family. One summer holiday we remembered well. It was in 1992. The Renault Espace was loaded with kids, bicycles and camping gear for four. We were stuck in a jam on a French motorway when Sue, observing how motorcyclists easily filtered past us en route to their holiday destination before us, announced “Mark, one day I want you to get a big bike, and ride off into the sunset with me on the back. Just the two of us”. So that was how the next bike chapter started.

I took my test, passing first time, and we bought an old BMW R90/RT.

The first bike in my ‘born again biker era’. A BMW R90/RT. Still looking ‘cool’ of course.

In fact we did not use it as expected. An hour or so at a time in the countryside around us was all Sue could manage before feeling uncomfortable.

A hired Honda Goldwing for a week in Nevada and Arizona one year pointed to a better future for her.

We then traded-up to a much newer BMW R1100RT in 1997. That was really when the bug bit. We toured a good deal around Europe, down to Germany and Switzerland, as well as dashing down to Cassis, near Marseilles, several times. I also rode up to John O’Groats from London just for a long weekend.

The BM eventually gave way to the first Triumph Rocket. An early example from 2006. The first trip was to the Isle of Man TT, where a ‘tank-slapping’ moment braking too hard for a corner on the mountain course on Mad Sunday almost ended everything.

Tours around Europe increased exponentially. Morocco, Italy, Turkey and most countries in between, were lapped up with relish. We added a custom pillion seat and intercom to make life on the road all the more enjoyable. One year, we flew the bike to New York and rode it in a giant zig-zig across the States to Los Angeles. The variety and range of experiences and emotions on that trip were remarkable. Quite by chance we learnt that the Bonneville Salt Flats had just opened to the public that year. We rode out to the middle, not trying to set a record, but stopping for a photo.

Our 2006 Triumph Rocket on Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah.

Still looking ‘cool’, people say, but in fact my hair was swept back because I was sweating so much. Sue was shielding her eyes from the sun, and the Rocket maintained a magnificent pose.

A Harley Sportster 883 Iron followed. It looked and sounded good, but otherwise did not really excite me. I missed the Rocket, but used the Harley for commuting mostly. The next bike was a Triumph Tiger; comfortable, agile and dependable, but something was still missing. The Rocket.

A casual glance at Triumph’s website the day before I took the Tiger in for a service, left me frothing at the mouth. I drooled over an image of something called a Rocket X - a tenth anniversary special addition, all in black. The second mistake I made was telling the chaps at Jack Lilley, my Triumph dealer, that I had seen it on the website the evening before. They replied, “Like that one over there!”. I turned around and my legs gave way from under me. It look less than a minute to decide. “I’ll have it”.

The huge grin returned immediately. The one I missed so much after the first Rocket was sold. The colossal road presence, weight, and pot-hole absorbing ability made commuting in London once more such a joy. The torque did its best to throw me off the back when I flicked the throttle with vigour; probably more often than I should have tried.

But the commuting came to an end when our company died. Then Sue died. Then I got on the Rocket X and rode it around the world. You know this part of the story by now.

Proudly standing beside my Triumph Rocket X at Uluru, Australia.

This Rocket X enabled me to change my life, or perhaps I changed because of it. Either way, my life would not have changed without it. And for the better.

*****

* I took a Saturday job working in a clothes shop in Kingston called “Mates, by Irvine Sellar”. He started selling clothes from a market stall and later developed a small chain of clothes shops. His business model was ahead of its time, selling mens clothes on the ground floor and womens clothes on the first floor. I did not get to know him well but he gave me a few useful tips on selling. Much later I learnt that he sold his shops and started a property development business. His greatest challenge, and greatest success, came towards the end of his life when he developed “THE SHARD” in London - the tallest building in the UK. Bravo Irvine.

Confined by Coronavirus

Staying positive.

I have written and spoken about the importance of staying positive in the past, as well as dealing with it in my book. It is not easy I will admit, but we must all focus on doing so to make progress in the new world dominated by Coronavirus.

Staying positive saved me from catastrophe and led me to a new life. 

All of our lives have just changed, whether we yet recognise it or not.

I suggest the first thing we do is accept the reality of the situation. A lot of people will die, possibly millions. The virus will not be beaten in weeks, but probably years. The fight will be expensive. Most of us will be poorer, living in a more difficult world, paying more taxes. 

My life experiences and pragmatism have helped me accept the new world and get on with it. That’s a positive thought and I want to share it with you.

Please stop hoping that a vaccine will be found tomorrow, and we will be allowed out of our homes and back to work the day after. It is not going to happen like that.

Remote working, restricted travel and even isolation will be with us for quite a while. Think about how you are going to deal with it. Think positively. Turn the difficulties around and find benefits. Remember that for every problem there is a solution. Some solutions are quite difficult to find at first, but they are always there.

Please support the people in your government. They were not elected to fight a war for you but that it what they are now having to do. They are listening, learning, and making decisions for all of us, as best they can. History will record their decisions, and later the results, but for now they are dealing with uncertainties. They will remain positive I am sure, but pragmatic. 

None of us who have journeyed around the world, or significant parts of it, by motorcycle, or other means, will accept that the virus will beat us. I expect that we will all want to share our positivity with you. Even if we won’t be riding anywhere for a while.

Blatant self publicity for my book 'Rebirth'.

Stay positive … keep your dreams alive.

You can order ‘Rebirth’ from Amazon in many countries, but here is a link to the UK site.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/REBIRTH-HEARTBREAK-HAPPINESS-Mark-Holmes/dp/1692946714/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rebirth+mark+holmes&qid=1576660618&sr=8-1

Some people call me "The Rocket Man"

In some quarters I am known as ‘The Rocket Man”. That pleases me. After all I am the only man to have ridden around the world on a Triumph Rocket: with 2,300 cc between my legs. It is the world’s largest capacity production motorcycle.

Triumph Motorcycles invited me to their factory launch of a new Triumph Rocket in late July 2019. I was mentioned in their presentation to invited journalists, and described as a ‘VIP’. I felt very humble.

It was a terrific occasion which I thoroughly enjoyed.

On board the all new Triumph Rocket 3 GT

' from heartbreak to happiness'

I have changed the subtitle of REBIRTH to ‘from heartbreak to happiness’. It was originally ‘A very personal journey around the world on the world’s largest motorcycle’. That is still the case of course. The journey, title and contents are identical. However, I gave a number of book presentations in the summer of 2019, and each time I saw that many people in the audience had moist eyes; some even cried. It has become evident to me that it is the emotional content of the journey, not necessarily the journey itself, that resonates most with people who hear the story or have read the book.

If you have bought the book with its original sub-title, thank you. You now own a ‘First Edition’. Hang on to it!

‘REBIRTH’, from heartbreak to happiness, Mark Holmes

REBIRTH is also available from many other Amazon sites worldwide.

'Rebirth’ is getting great reviews

Sam Manicom, Author and Motorcycle Adventurer.

For me, a travel book has to include a mix of challenge, awe, intrigue, ‘I didn’t know that’ moments, humour, the unexpected, and self-discovery moments. Rebirth has all of these. I also want to like the main character, and I love travel books which have a series of threads intertwined. Mark Holmes has done that with a light touch and these threads are part of what makes this book such a page turner. His motorcycle is just one of those threads.

I need to say that I feared, from the title and subtitle, that this book might be a long tale of heartbreak and depression around the world, with a flash of new life and optimism towards the end. My fears were completely wrong. This is a very personal story told in such a way that you want to know what happens next. He has walked the tightrope very nicely and not once did I feel that I had to let my eyes skim over any of the sections. The descriptions are interesting and take you to the scenes without overkill and I really enjoyed the cultural information that he has woven in. And yes, he made me laugh. This book is a keeper!

Gareth Richmond, on Twitter.

“I haven’t been engaged in such a glorious book in so long. Beautifully written, it felt like being on your journey with you. A truly inspirational read. I look up to you with such admiration. 

When life gives you lemons.”

Paddy Tyson, Editor – Overland

"By the time he reaches Turkey, and certainly Iran, …his heart, attitude and mind is opening, and his ability to engage people in conversation is admirable”.  

“… it’s a story of change, loss and very new love, from a man who learns how to smile”. 

“… incredible outcome”.

“Rebirth is well written and flows nicely”.

Leigh Wilkins, Editor – Traverse

“Mark discovers a love for others, … and love of a very special kind”

“… a unique story offering a different perspective to motorcycle travel”

In print around the world

I feel humble, grateful and proud every time a magazine publishes something about my story. There’s always a big smile on my face too.

It was THE ROAD, edited by Ian Mutch, and published by Motorcycle Action Group who put this picture on the front cover when I set off from the UK in April 2017. http://www.mag-uk.org

In July 2019, when the dust had settled on my journey, they covered me again in their first ever “Romance” section. Dalila and I were thrilled with the article.

Overland Magazine, published and edited by Paddy Tyson, covered my adventure through Iran in Issue 22.

https://overlandmag.com

Here I am sitting comfortably on the Silk Road where it runs through the centre of the bazaar in Tabriz.

BIKE, Britain’s biggest selling bike magazine, covered my “Triumph over adversity” in January 2019. The Adventure section is edited by Lois Pryce, whose travels and writing have been an inspiration to me. She asked some particularly searching questions which brought the article to life.

https://www.bikemagazine.co.uk

https://www.loisontheloose.com

Not just motorcycle magazines. There’s a beautiful publication called REVOLUTION, edited by Keith W. Strandberg, covering the exotic world of watches, celebrating the craft, culture and joy of watches and watchmaking through a dozen international editions and its website: https://www.revolution.watch/home/

Keith asked some great questions too.

My book "REBIRTH" is published on Amazon

Seven Amazon websites worldwide now offer my book via their “print-on-demand” service. Find it by using the search term “Rebirth Mark Holmes” on Amazon in USA, UK, Japan, France, Germany, Italy or Spain.

In fact I have published two versions in paperback. The version with a photograph of me on the cover at Uluru/Ayres Rock has 30 black and white photographs inside. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07QFXHPHV

The other version, more expensive, has a rear view of me in New Zealand on the cover, and 30 colour photographs inside. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/109514992X/ref=rdr_ext_tmb

The title and text are identical.

There are also e-versions on Amazon Kindle and Kobo.

“Rebirth” is the story of my very personal journey around the world. After losing so much of the life I cherished I set off with an open heart to ride around the world on the world’s largest motorcycle. My journey became a story about positivity, passions, grief, love, removing obstacles, solving problems, and engaging with people.

I hope that readers will be encouraged to seek their own adventure and tackle life’s challenges, whilst at the same time learning how I turned heartbreak to happiness once more.

Podcast / Interview on Adventure Rider Radio

I was interviewed by Jim Martin from Adventure Rider Radio. He asked some great questions, and managed to get the heart of my journey. Well worth spending an hour alone with your headphones, and a cup of tea or a glass of wine.

https://adventureriderradio.com/…/world-travel-on-a-rocket-…

Reflecting on the unanswerable question. Why?

My book is written

My book is written, and the process of finding the best publisher is underway.

Rebirth is the story of my personal journey around the world on the world’s largest motorcycle. In late 2016, the company that Sue and I ran for 28 years went in to administration. Eleven days after that, following a long fight with cancer, she died. I set off from London to attract attention, deliver messages to the world, and share passions. I asked the world to deliver something to me in return, but in my wildest dreams I could not have imagined how it would turn out. 

People, places, sights, sounds and smells filled every day with joy. Unmade roads, breakdowns, border crossings, guns, machetes, sweat and tears, as well as illegally entering the USA, formed part of the daily challenges. But an improbable meeting, an impossible continuation, and utterly unpredictable conclusion took me from heartbreak to happiness. It led me to re-learn what I already knew to be true, that the greatest thing in life is to learn to love and be loved in return.

My thanks go to others who have ridden and written before me, including Ted Simon, Jim Rogers, Sam Manicom, Charley Boorman, Lois Pryce and more.

A selection of some of the adventure books I have loved.